Dutch-born chef Richard Ekkebus has helmed the upscale restaurant Amber since 2005, charting a journey spanning more than 20 years to reach three Michelin stars. After earning the first two in 2009, Ekkebus took the top honors in March, along with a “green” star the restaurant got in 2022. That raises the pressure to innovate in a competitive, high-end dining scene.
Yet Amber, inside the Landmark Mandarin Oriental hotel (also home to fellow three-starred Sushi Shikon), rises to the challenge by evolving with the seasons.
Fresh produce steals the show, especially after Ekkebus completely eliminated dairy and gluten from his dishes several years ago. The result is an offering that lets unique ingredients shine, like the Tasmanian pepper berry against a duck foie gras. Other surprises include the ishigakidai, a fish rarely found on menus. Also known as a spotted knifejaw, it’s typically available only in the summer and fall.
If a French restaurant found a way to do without dairy — for example by using cashew butter that’s just as indulgent as the original — you can trust it to accommodate dietary needs and preferences. Amber offers a vegetarian menu that can be adapted for vegans, something it proudly advertises. This quality and attention to detail come with a big price tag, though, as one would expect. For dinner, six courses start at HK$2,058 while the eight-course experience comes in at HK$2,888 and includes a kitchen tour. Lunch can be a more wallet-friendly option, with three courses starting at HK$928 on weekdays.When we visited on a Wednesday evening, our bill for three came to HK$10,657, including service. We opted for the base menu with several upgrades and a glass of wine each. If you choose to go big for a special occasion, you can count on Amber to deliver something fresh. It’s comfortable in its identity but hardly complacent, perhaps the secret sauce to its staying power.
The vibe: It’s modern and elegant, with the interior by New York-based designer Adam D. Tihany. The tables are spread out with seemingly more staff than diners, plus private spaces that can accommodate up to eight guests.
Who’s next to you: On the night we were there, it was predominately couples. Many appeared to be celebrating special occasions.
Can you conduct a meeting here? It depends on your comfort level. The restaurant is in a narrow space with most diners in the main room seated side-by-side instead of opposite each other. The two private rooms have a more standard table-and-chair setup.
What we’d order again: Amber’s signature Aka uni with cauliflower mousse, lobster and caviar, an add-on for HK$498. It’s remained on the menu for years, and rightfully so. The pork rib — of the Basque country’s Kintoa breed — proved exceptional, though the accompanying matsutake cooked en cocotte in fig leaf stole the spotlight. You may be tempted to add the Ouka wagyu at HK$750, but the pork delivers without the premium. It’s a rich enough meal as is.
Need to know: Amber is located on the seventh floor of Landmark Mandarin Oriental hotel in Central. It is open for lunch from noon to 4 p.m. and for dinner from 6 p.m. to midnight. Reservations can be made online.
This was originally published in Hong Kong Edition, a weekly newsletter. To subscribe for free, click here.
For more restaurants with Michelin recognition, see our reviews of the French bistro Belon , the value-for-money dim sum gem Yat Tung Heen and the Spanish-Japanese fusion spot Ando .
Are there any restaurants you think we should check out? Let us know at hkedition@bloomberg.net . See all our reviews here .
More stories like this are available on bloomberg.com
